I have purchased all the remaining inventory of Torque-Shift parts and components from the manufacturer for resale, trade and exchange. Contact me for all your Torque-Shift propeller needs.
I also have arranged with a top propeller repair shop, to fix damaged blades.
You can pay on Paypal.com or prepay by calling me and telling me what you want with an address. I prefer to do business on the Internet when possible. Costs include shipping in the U.S.
|
1. Springs: 4 each - $45.00 delivered. 15, 30 or 45 lbs. 2. New Diffuser Rings, 26" or 32". $55.00 delivered. 3. New cams. 3 each - $95.00 delivered. Currently, I only have X, Z and ZZ. A few lower ones may be made at a later time. These are VERY expensive to make initially. Email for any individual older cams I might have. 4. 1.125" Prop Shaft Bearings. Comes with a 1" dowel to insert in the bearing when drilling downward thru the bearing for the guide pin. See my site on how to do this. $40.00
5. .5" guide pin bearings. Comes with a small dowel press
to install. $35.00 |
|
 8. New prop washer that expands to touch and lock the guide pin retaining cap screws. $25.00 |
|
|
9. New 3- guide pin
retaining screws. 3 for $35.00 Install the 3/4"-16 urethane retaining screw to hold each guide pin in place. Lightly tighten each screw, one at a time, until it just bottoms in the cam pocket on the prop blade shaft. Then back off no more than 1/4 turn!!. Pull the blade outward to be sure it is locked in the cam pocket. If the guide pin wasn't seated in the cam properly, the blade could come off while running!
Then attach the springs. A pair of long nose locking pliers work
well if you don't have the LS tool.
I am in the process of making a spring tool.
|
|
|
10. New High pitch set screws. 3 for $25.00. As the prop sits it is in low pitch. That limit is controlled by the cam shape. As the prop accelerates the blades expand outward and rotate until the blade spring arm hits the high pitch set screws. If they are set too far out the top RPM will be too high and the engine over revs. Moving the set screws inward will raise pitch setting. Make sure you don't go too far inward or the blade spring arm may be stopped by the hole in the hub, and not the set screws. |
|
|
11. NEW CAMS!
Entirely re-engineered and made of heat treated
stainless steel. The most popular styles were made due to the
extreme costs of reproduction any more types. If
you require a lower lettered cam, set total pitch lower with the blade set screws, or use a heavier spring to keep the pitch
lower over a wider RPM range. These shouldn't be intermixed
with any older cams.
Price for 3, $140.00 delivered (price for stainless steel has skyrocketed). Your purchase requires you to sign a release from liability letter that I can fax to you. These only fit the propellers with 1.125" propeller shafts.
When the prop is at rest the blades are in low pitch with
the guide pin on the lowest and thinnest part of the cam.
There is no adjustment for this blade position except a cam
change. Lower letter cam, lower starting pitch.
As soon as the prop accelerates and reaches a certain RPM,
controlled by the strength of the springs, the blades
expand outward to a higher pitch. The slope on the cam
determines the rate of change and the height of the slope
the final stopping point. Higher letters have a higher stopping
point.
The top position is also controlled by the set screws.
These should be adjusted to touch the blades stops when the
guide pin reaches the top of the cam slope. If allowed to
go beyond this, the guide pin can break the upper edge of the
cam wall. When set correctly the motor should rev and at the same time the prop takes hold and the boat begins to accelerate. The motor shouldn't over rev on initial start up.
The inside edge of the cam was not designed to take the
full force of the blade moving outward
Put a guide pin in a guide, and a blade. Slowly pull the blade and pull it outward until the cam wall just touches the guide pin.
Set the blade's final set screw at that point. This
will relieve extra stress on the end of the cam.
Do this to each blade.
Here is a comparison of my new cam with the one made by Land and Sea. 
Mine are were designed by digital imaging and cut on a 4
axis CNC machine out of heat treated stainless steel.
Notice the smooth bottom compared to the older one. New
users state this enables smoother and faster shifts
12. New .5" guide pins. Made from heat treated stainless steel.. $50.00 a set delivered.
13. If you have
a hub with a replaceable upper drive top spline insert, the
lower hub shaft hole for the probably has a brass thrust insert,
with a slight bevel on it, that is removable. If you lose or destroy the thrust insert, you can get one thru Mercury Marine, part # 14359 on line or a dealer. 14. Props for 4.3 Chevy engines and outdrives ( Volvo). The Volvo outdrives come with two ratios. If you have the 2:1 drive and use a prop of 21-23", I recommend our 32" prop with Z cams. If your unit has a 19" pitch prop and turns under 4,500 rpm, I advise a 26" prop with Z cams. I have a modified thrust ring that goes between the prop hub and drive unit. Thanks again. Bob |
|
I also have some new and used hubs and blades. Email or fax for information.
For a Torque Shift to work properly on a boat use the following guide; A boat with a 17" pitch prop must be able to attain a speed of 40 mph or more. A boat with a 19" pitch prop must be able to go 42 mph and at least 4200 RPM's.
To tell the prop pitch, somewhere on the hub will be a number with either a 26 or 32 in it, which indicates the pitch size.
Land and Sea does not make the Torque Shift variable pitch propellers anymore. This propeller was a one of a kind as it automatically shifted pitch when a boat is underway. Several of the propeller parts can wear or break under misuse. All the parts can be replaced if needed. This business is designed to buy available parts as well as good used propellers. If you need parts, contact me and I'll let you know what I have. If you have used parts, email me a picture and description and I'll make you an offer.
| Email: tsPropMan@aol.com - I do all transactions by |
 |
| Telephone: (831) 464-8876 I'm a retired industrial arts teacher part time from my house and I may not get back to you right away so please leave a message and your call will be returned. | |
Thanks, Bob Merriam
1. Props 1 and 2 used a 1" propeller shaft which require a different bearing and cam. They also had 5/8" prop guide pins. The very fist models had no cams but curved slots in the propeller shafts that a tapered guide pin rode in. The shape of the slot couldn't be adjusted.
1" and 1.25" measurements are the diameter of each propeller blade shaft where it enters the hub, not the drive shaft diameter.
3. Also for sale, rubber and solid hubs for most inboards and outboards, 26" or 32". These come with a 1"-15 spline slot for Merc/OMC drivers and 19 spline for Volvo. The rubber hubs require a rear thrust washer for $35.00 extra.
4. New rubber hubs, $400.00, solid hubs, $325.00. Both include new high pitch set screws, new guide pin and blades shaft bearings.
The quantity is limited and when sold that will be the end of the new hubs forever.
Here's a Torque Shift prop in action. Click on the photo above
I decided to buy the remaining Land and Sea inventory in January and try to supply propeller parts to the current prop owners, realizing how important to my boating my TS prop was.
Between then and April I had to find manufacturers to take over the job of reverse engineering the replaceable parts. The following manufactures became interested in what I was doing and were fully supportive. Without their help I wouldn't be where I am now .
8. Cam digitizing:, Industrial Arts and Designs, Ian Melody, Emeryville, Ca.
Website Design and Search Engine Optimization by ©2008 Charles Cox 2cSystems.com all rights reserved