Torque Shift Propeller Exchange

I have purchased all the remaining inventory of Torque-Shift parts and components from the manufacturer for resale, trade and exchange. Contact me for all your Torque-Shift propeller needs.

TORQUE SHIFT PROPELLER PARTS AVAILABLE

You can pay on Paypal.com or prepay by calling me and telling me what you want with an address. I prefer to do business on the Internet when possible. Costs include shipping in the U.S.

1. Springs: 4 each - $45.00 delivered.   15, 30 or 45 lbs.

2. New Diffuser Rings, 26" or 32". $50.00 delivered.

3. New cams. 3 each - $95.00 delivered. Currently, I only have X, Z and ZZ. A few lower ones may be made at a later time. These are VERY expensive to make initially. Email for any individual older cams I might have.

4. 1.125" Prop Shaft Bearings. Comes with a 1" dowel to insert in the bearing when drilling downward thru the bearing for the guide pin. See my site on how to do this.   $40.00

5. .5" guide pin bearings. Comes with a small dowel press to install. $35.00

6. 6 pieces of replacement urethane inserts for the removable drive hub. Precut.    $25.00

7. 3/4" x 16 thin self locking prop nut. $35.00

8. New prop washer that expands to touch and lock the guide pin retaining cap screws. $25.00

9. New 3- guide pin retaining screws. 3 for $35.00, 6- $60.00 delivered. Much improved. Made from urethane, same material as the drive hub inserts.

You can put a little boat trailer wheels bearing grease inside the cam, and on tip of the guide pin.

Install the 3/4"-16 urethane retaining screw to hold each guide pin in place. Lightly tighten each screw, one at a time, until it just bottoms in the cam pocket on the prop blade shaft.

Then back off no more than 1/4 turn!!. Pull the blade outward to be sure it is locked in the cam pocket. If the guide pin wasn't seated in the cam properly, the blade could come off while running!

Then attach the springs. A pair of long nose locking pliers work well if you don't have the LS tool.

I am in the process of making a spring tool.

10. New High pitch set screws. 3 for $25.00. As the prop sits it is in low pitch. That limit is controlled by the cam shape. As the prop accelerates the blades expand outward and rotate until the blade spring arm hits the high pitch set screws. If they are set too far out the top RPM will be too high and the engine over revs.Moving the set screws inward will raise pitch setting. Make sure you don't go too far inward or the blade spring arm may be stopped by the hole in the hub, and not the set screws.

11. NEW CAMS! Entirely re-engineered   and made of heat treated stainless steel. The most popular styles were made due to the extreme costs of reproduction   any more types. If you require a lower lettered cam, set total pitch lower with the blade set screws, or use a heavier spring to keep the pitch lower over a wider RPM range. These shouldn't be intermixed with any older cams.

The X cams will fit most outboards from 150-250 hp as long as you tune it in with the correct springs.

The Z cams will fit the stern-drives with V8's and the ZZ for the V 6's.

Price for 3, $95.00 delivered. Your purchase requires you to sign a release from liability letter that I can fax to you. These only fit the propellers with 1.125" propeller shafts.

When the prop is at rest, the blades are in the highest pitch with the guide pin on the high point in the cam. There is no adjustment for this point except to change to another numbered cam.

As soon as the prop is accelerated the blades expand outward to a lower pitch for the "Hole Shot".

The final low pitch on start up is controlled by the Allen head set screws inside the hub, reached thru a hole in the diffuser ring. If on start up the motor goes to too high a RPM and the prop cavitates, move the set screws outward, evenly to lower the pitch. This may require 2-4 full turns of the set screws.

When set correctly the motor should rev and at the same time the prop takes hold and the boat begins to accelerate. The motor shouldn't over rev on initial start up.

The inside edge of the cam was not designed to take the full force of the blade moving outward

Put a guide pin in a guide, and a blade. Slowly pull the blade and pull it outward until the cam wall just touches the guide pin.

Set the blade's final set screw at that point. This will relieve extra stress on the end of the cam.

Do this to each blade.

Here is a comparison of my new cam  with the one made by Land and Sea.

Mine are were designed by digital imaging and cut on a 4 axis CNC machine out of heat treated stainless steel.

Notice the smooth bottom compared to the older one. New users state this enables smoother and faster shifts

12. New .5" guide pins. Made from heat treated stainless steel.. $50.00 a set delivered.

Thanks again. Bob

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